The brightest shows of the Haute Couture Fashion Week summer 2015

2024 Author: James Gerald | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 14:00

Yesterday in Paris, the Haute Couture Week of the spring-summer 2015 season ended. Bright shows from the world's leading fashion houses replaced each other with a kaleidoscope of designer fantasies - some were simple and understandable, others were too veiled, but no less ambitious and interesting. Flowers - small, large, embroidered and painted - have become an unspoken theme running through all the shows - apparently with the help of them, the designers decided to remind about the imminent onset of spring and distract the public from politics and the crisis. Well, let's see how they did it.

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Inspired by the works of the French Symbolist writer Albert Samen and the canvases of famous artists, designer Alexis Mabiy has created a collection, each outfit of which resembles a flower with vibrant, saturated shades that shimmer under the catwalk spotlights. Models, whose hair was decorated with feathers to match the outfit, showed elegant dresses made of lace, shiny brocade, silk and satin. Some images were distinguished by lightness and delicate work, others by their monumentality: heavy folds added picturesqueness to dresses, which is not forbidden at couture shows, but on the contrary is encouraged in every possible way. Despite the fact that the history of the house is not so great (the brand has existed since 2005), it already quite firmly stands in its place in the world of haute couture. In our opinion, outfits with floral appliqués deserve special praise.

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With his spring-summer couture show, the legendary Giorgio Armani decided not only to please the sophisticated audience, but also to celebrate the tenth anniversary of his haute couture line. The main theme of the catwalk was the east, which the bamboo stem was called upon to personify - the plant not only adorned the podium (along the perimeter there was a large-scale installation of metal stems), but also was the main motif of prints and embroidery that adorned the outfits. Choosing a rather calm color scheme for the collection, Armani focused on the layering and modesty of forms inherent in oriental clothes - in many outfits one could see references to the classic kimono and the art of origami. The designer combined light translucent skirts with rather strict jackets and asymmetrical tops, and when creating evening dresses, he decided to give free rein to imagination in the decoration.

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The fashion house Versace, led, of course, with Donatella Versace at this Fashion Week pretty much surprised everyone, stepping back (albeit not much) from its favorite topic of sex, presenting images with smoother shapes instead of the expected daring outfits. Moving away from the usual corsets, Donatella decided to play with the cut, which helped to repeat the curves of the female body with the help of cuts and rounded lines on dresses and overalls, so the sexuality in the images, although it remained, became a little softer, which cannot but rejoice. What Versace could not deny herself was her favorite bright monochrome, she painted the entire collection in electric blue, red, white and black, only slightly diluting them with powdery shades.

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The collection has appeared images in which you can see echoes, for example, of the 50s and 60s.

The creative director of the house of Dior, Raf Simons, while creating his collection, decided to philosophize a little on the topic of history, tradition and self-awareness. It was inspired by the legendary performer David Bowie, who can be considered a real chameleon from the world of music and fashion, full of contradictions and creative reflections. There were enough contradictions in the outfits shown on the catwalk - the designer invited the viewer to look at the past through the prism of the present and the future. Therefore, the collection appeared images in which you can see echoes, for example, of the 50s and 60s, in the form of A-line dresses, multi-colored stripes and pop art patterns, which were quite harmoniously combined with vinyl boots and coats from printed plastic. There was also a place in the show for the classic Dior silhouettes and decoration, which Simons replayed in his own way, adding a little modernity to them. Some may say that he was too clever, others admire, but that is what couture is for, to try and experiment with clothes as art.

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The creator of the outfits that every woman dreams of, Elie Saab decided not to go too far in creative searches and presented a consistently perfect collection in his favorite pastel shades. Each dress shown on the catwalk is worthy of the best red carpets, because Saab never skimped on finishing (rich embroidery and whole placers of stones), while leaving the silhouettes simple. However, in our opinion, such stability can be alarming - most of the outfits are so similar to the creations from previous collections that the designer can show a couple of old dresses on the catwalk without anyone noticing. The only thing that distinguishes his new collection from the previous ones are dresses with trimmed with marabou feathers and models in pastel shades, decorated with large floral prints and appliqués.

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The designer was inspired by the American rock singer Janis Joplin and the inimitable Coco Chanel.

Having watched the show of the Giambattista Valli couture collection, you will never think that when creating it, the designer was inspired by the American rock singer Janice Joplin and the inimitable Coco Chanel, but they became the designer's muses this time. He did not take elements that were clearly associated with these two women, and with the help of his recognizable style only hinted at them a little, so in the collection you can not see any small black dress, no strands of pearls, or ethnic notes. And yet, hints are still visible. Hints of Janice could be seen in slightly more relaxed silhouettes, and Chanel was read in tailored trousers, over which were worn skirts, and in jackets, some of which were stylized as the legendary tweed. The decor in the form of 3D floral appliqués and a huge number of chiffon frills remained unchanged attributes of the fashion house's catwalk.

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Zuhair Murad's spring-summer couture collection was based on water. With the help of rich decoration made of beads, bugles and rhinestones, the designer decided to show all the power and poetry of the elements. The declared theme, as well as the performance, caused a flurry of applause among the admirers of the brand, and this is not surprising - every dress created by Zuhair cannot but captivate the heart of a fashionista, because it combines everything that is so dear to a woman's heart: sexuality, sophistication and luxurious oriental decor.

Despite the fact that the collection really turned out to be very beautiful, at first glance, one might think that the inspiration for it was not water, as the designer himself stated, but the creations of a colleague in the shop, as well as fellow countryman Murad - Elie Saab - the same color scheme, that the same style of decoration. Well, water is water.

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At Gaultier's impromptu "wedding" one could see the bride with a cake made of curlers on her head.

As the line from the famous song of the legendary group Queen says - “The show must go on”. This phrase became not only the main credo of the eccentric Jean-Paul Gaultier in life, but also the theme of all his shows. And, of course, the couture fashion show was no exception. This time, the designer decided to play with the theme of the wedding, but with his inherent humor. At Gaultier's impromptu "wedding" one could see a bride with a cake made of curlers on her head, "guests" in elegant trouser suits, strange personalities in outfits stylized as work overalls and strange headdresses, as well as a huge number of models in asymmetric illusion dresses, one the side of which was a strict trouser suit or a laconic mini, and the other was a lush ball gown or a sexy frame mock-up. Well, like any wedding celebration, it ended with its own "bouquet throwing", which was performed by supermodel Naomi Campbell.

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The show of the Maison Martin Margiela couture collection has become one of the most anticipated events of the entire Fashion Week, because the hitherto disgraced designer John Galliano acted as the creative director of the brand. After four years of inactivity, the designer showed that there is still gunpowder in the flasks and that he is still ready to fight for his place in the fashion world. Having rather bold ideas about how fashion should look, Galliano very delicately dealt with the traditions and style of the fashion house Margiela - the collection clearly showed the style developed over the years, and at the same time, the handwriting of the charismatic John was visible. The models also demonstrated outfits that were not devoid of theatricality and irony, telling us that fashion is a high art, and quite wearable black sets.

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Valentino designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have dedicated their couture collection to love, all-encompassing and without limits. As inspiration, they used quotes from Shakespeare and Dante, as well as the inimitable canvases of Marc Chagall - the latter's work can be seen most of all in the fashion show. Having Russian roots, Chagall all his life sang a simple but sublime love, so most of the outfits are created from natural materials: wool and linen, lavishly decorated with stones and beads, folded into ornaments that refer us to national costumes. The show was closed by a model in airy outfits with clouds, rainbows and quotes made of colored sequins, one of which reads: "Love conquers everything - even death."

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It seems that the only ones who decided to give free rein to their sense of humor and imagination during the preparation of the collection for Fashion Week were the Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoren. They have established themselves as gallant experimenters, so even if not all of their creations are wearable, there is no doubt that they will cause a lot of emotions. This time, the Viktor & Rolf show was like a harvest festival - the models were dressed in exaggeratedly lush dresses painted with large flowers with floral appliqués, which, like 3D pictures, aimed beyond the outfit, and their hairstyles consisted of golden ears, the number of which reached the point of absurdity … As it turned out, this action has nothing to do with agriculture or pagan rituals - in fact, the designers dedicated their collection to the work of the artist Van Gogh.

Not without representatives from Russia at the Week of Haute Couture - Ulyana Sergeenko once again demonstrated her collection, but the show that everyone was expecting did not happen - the presentation of new masterpieces of Russian couture took place in the intimate atmosphere of the brand's showroom in Paris.

The world of haute couture has undergone significant changes lately.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the world of haute couture has been undergoing considerable changes lately and is periodically divided into two camps - some believe that couture should be closer to the people, and present fairly simple collections, others insist that couture should remain an art.

What do you think about this?