Basis of Basics, or Most Important

2024 Author: James Gerald | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 14:00

The new book of the “Beauty Master Class” series by Lera Galiullina - a famous journalist and TV presenter, producer, author of books on female beauty - is devoted to how to apply makeup correctly. Yes, indeed, any woman knows how to make up her lips and draw her eyes without books. The purpose of the "Very useful book about … make-up" is to tell everything you need to know about the intricacies of modern professional make-up. Here the author shares new secrets of the best makeup artists, stylists and make-up artists. By virtue of her profession, Lera constantly uses the recipes that she shared with the readers in this book, so it is safe and very effective to use these techniques. This tutorial will show you what you need to do to look like a real superstar, always and under any circumstances.

Most women use a foundation as a plaster - they literally "cover up" their face with a foundation, which, among other things, does not suit them at all. As a result, even an expensive product from a well-known company does not fulfill any of its obligatory functions: it does not even out the complexion, does not hide skin imperfections and does not make it healthier. Although a high-quality tonal foundation should not only "decorate", but also protect the skin from the sun, wind and temperature extremes.

How do we get used to choosing a foundation for makeup?

Most often we are guided by color. We saw a pleasant beige shade through the frosted glass of the bubble, for fidelity, they dropped the cream on the back of the hand, made sure that the product was absorbed into the skin, which means it would not stain clothes (this is nonsense) and that's it - it's done. And the fact that the product does not suit the skin at all is no longer important to us.

Then we will wonder why this tone still stains clothes, does not fit well, rolls down, tightens the skin, does not mask defects and looks like a death mask on the face. And the color is not the same …

"Foundation", "foundation", "makeup base" and "makeup base" are one and the same product. It can be the color of human skin, pearl pink, or nearly colorless. The principle of use unites these products: they are applied to clean skin and even out the complexion. The shade is selected depending on the task and the condition of the skin. Sheer and beige foundations can be mixed or applied alternately to the skin.

Correct choice, or "All in Science"

Sometimes, we do not even suspect that the skin problems that we are trying to solve unsuccessfully are provoked by an incorrectly selected foundation.

First of all, you need to pay attention not to the shade of the product (although this is certainly very important), but to its structure - you should choose a makeup base only for your skin type.

Oily skin

Oily skin suffers the most if the wrong remedy is chosen to make it perfect. Acne, inflammation and redness are sure signs of an inappropriate makeup base.

If a tone stains clothes, this does not mean at all that it is of poor quality. Most likely, it is simply incompatible with the skin. When we try to choose a foundation, we always apply it to the back of the hand. The skin of any person is always very dry here, especially in winter, and naturally, the cream is quickly absorbed into it. When applied to oily skin, the product will "behave" in a completely different way.

If your skin is oily or prone to oily, test foundations and creams right on the face, and not on the palms and other parts of the body. Apply foundation to forehead, chin and wings of the nose. If the product is suitable, it will be absorbed immediately and will not smear afterwards. You can conduct more thorough "tests" - look at the "behavior" of the tone and the reaction of the skin during the day. For these purposes, ask the store for "samples".

The most important thing for oily skin is to choose a tone that is fat-free. The product must be water-based.

Water-based liquid foundations, when applied correctly, look very natural, as they are completely invisible on the skin. They matte the face well without the "mask effect", that is, they do not "overload" the skin, but most importantly, they do not clog the pores, provoking the appearance of acne and inflammation.

Don't let yourself be deceived

Look for the words "oil free" or "oil control" on the packaging - this means that the product is made on a non-greasy basis for problematic and oily skin.

If the skin is oily, but there are no blemishes on it that need to be carefully masked, you can apply foundation over the thermal water just sprayed on your face before it has time to absorb. In this case, the foundation will be "diluted" with water and will lay down in a thinner layer, without aggravating the condition of the skin prone to oily.

In general, the thinner the layer of the cream, the better the skin breathes and, accordingly, the less shine.

If the skin has inflammation or other imperfections, it is better to use dense compact powders with a velvety base. They mask problem areas well, due to the high content of pigments, and at the same time perfectly absorb oil, leaving the skin matte for a long time.

Something else…

The compact base hides skin imperfections and looks very natural. It is ideal for photo and video shooting. In a close-up, the face looks like it doesn't have any makeup on.

Oily skin

Oily skin means oily only in the T-zone: on the forehead, on the nose and on the chin. In all people of the planet, the sebaceous glands in these areas work more actively and produce a little more skin secretion.

In fact, skin that is “oily”, that is, combined, is usually called “normal”, but this definition does not seem entirely correct to me. The term "normal" is misleading, convinces of the standard and ordinary - it seems to us that "normal" skin does not require any special care. In fact, there is no "normal" skin in nature - it is always a little drier or a little fatter, depending on the time of day, season, state of the body and other factors. Therefore, any skin needs a special, individual approach. If you ignore it, even the most “normal” skin will quickly move into the category of “problem” or “sensitive”.

But enough theory …

The most important thing for oily skin is to choose a good cream powder. They reduce shine on oily areas and do not dry out the skin on the cheeks and cheekbones.

All products with a matte effect are essential to correct skin imperfections. Matte textures "distribute" light over the skin, visually making it cleaner, and the complexion - smoother.

Possible options

A good option for oily skin is a high-quality loose powder. It can completely replace foundations if you just need to remove oily shine, dry the skin and make open pores less noticeable. It is best to apply the powder with a wide brush, and additionally treat the T-zone with a sponge so that the powder lays down a little denser.

Dry skin

It turns out that we dry the skin where it is already dry, and make it heavier in the areas that are already “suffocating” from the excess of skin secretions.

We sometimes do not notice this, but our skin is constantly changing, becoming more oily, sometimes drier. We do not pay attention to these changes and continue to care for the face as usual. As a result of such indifference, minor problems appear - peeling, inflammation and even wrinkles.

For most women, the skin is constantly "migrating" from the category of "prone to oily" to the category of "prone to dryness", in a word, you need to be on the lookout.

The most important thing for dry skin is to choose a moisturizing foundation.

At the same time, the skin can be very dry on the cheeks and very oily in the T-zone. In this case, you should "work" with combination skin very carefully. Professional makeup artists stock up on two types of foundations: they cover the T-zone with a tone for oily skin, and they cover dry skin on the cheeks and cheekbones with a moisturizing foundation.

Something else…

The most interesting thing is that you can combine not only textures and types of tonal bases, but even their shades! For example, the tone for oily skin in the T-zone may be slightly lighter than the tone on the cheeks and cheekbones.

Thanks to this careful approach, you can visibly improve the condition of the skin and correct facial features. This is how it works.

You Need to Know

The combination of dark and light shades of the tonal base is a favorite technique of makeup artists. The more professional the master, the more boldly he uses the play of halftones and the more impressive the result is. With the help of dark and light tones, you can make your face look "younger" by several years, "shorten" your nose, remove a "double chin" or make your lips fuller - the possibilities are truly unlimited.

In the pages of this book, I will give out the secrets of professional masters and share a variety of techniques of "disguise".

I'll start with a classic example of combining dark and light. It is used by all world celebrities in films, on catwalks and in front of camera lenses.

A darker foundation should be applied to the very edge of the face, almost at the hairline, as well as on the temples and cheekbones. This will make the face look more prominent. In addition, the dark tone visually "narrows" the face, removing puffiness and extra pounds.

A lighter tone should be applied to the center of the forehead, chin and bridge of the nose. This makes the face look fresher and more rested. Light areas "tighten" the skin, smoothing out fine wrinkles, so that it feels like it is really a little "taut".

It is important to make the transitions between dark and light tones smooth and imperceptible, otherwise, instead of the proper "Hollywood effect", you will get a graphic drawing of an art school entrant. Under "dark" and "light" tones are meant subtle shades of beige from each other. Moreover, the tones should be of the same color temperature - either warm or cold.

Dry skin

An improperly selected foundation makes dry skin flaky, irritated and provokes the appearance of early wrinkles.

Ideal for dry skin, moisturizing liquid foundations are great for dry and flaky skin.

The most important thing for dry skin is to avoid water-based foundation. Dry skin needs oil-based products. They will not only even out the complexion, but also retain moisture in the skin cells.

Don't let yourself be deceived

Look for the words "moisturizing" or "rich" on the packaging of the foundation.

Ideally, you want to have multiple foundations, or change your foundations every five months. As I already wrote, our skin changes depending on the season: in winter it is usually drier, in summer it is more oily. In addition, in the hot summer months, skin tone can change slightly, even if we do not sunbathe on purpose.

In spring and summer, when the weather is humid and warm, it is best to apply a light foundation and quite a bit of powder on top if you need to matte your face.

In winter, it is better to use thicker textures by mixing them with moisturizers.

Dull "tired" skin

Tired is not a skin type, but a condition. When the skin is exhausted and lifeless, it takes on an unpleasant gray tint, which is difficult to "paint over" even with a foundation. Although, of course, you can paint over, but for this you will have to put more than one layer of tone, and this will not make it more beautiful and fresh.

Tired skin needs a nourishing, radiant foundation, a foundation with microscopic light reflective pigments. Thanks to them, the skin glows "from the inside", and this glow looks very natural. Daylight "plays" with reflective particles, and the feeling is that the face is well hydrated and lifted.

Remember

Turgor Is the elasticity of the skin. To be more precise, it is the internal hydrostatic pressure in a living cell, which causes tension in the cell membrane.

Dense matte powder and tonal means in sticks are categorically not suitable for dull and dry skin, as they emphasize wrinkles and a slight turgor of the "tired" face.

Nuances

There are transparent illuminating agents with reflective pigments. They are called "base" for makeup. They even out complexion and give a glow, but do not tone the skin, as they do not contain coloring pigments.

The illuminating base can be applied under the foundation, or you can use it yourself, if there is no need to mask skin imperfections.

Reflective pigments are essential for dry skin. They improve complexion and make even very dry skin look velvety and hydrated.

Reflective particles “turn on” an inner glow that instantly refreshes the face.

Many women are wary of using luminous bases, believing that the reflective particles make the skin shine. In fact, this is a delusion. "Bold Shine" and "Shine" look completely different. The oily sheen is caused by an excess of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands, in other words it is "oil", and the radiance is achieved thanks to the smallest particles that reflect daylight, like shards of a mirror.

If I'm still not convincing, you can experiment: smear one palm with oil, the other with an illuminating base, then bring your hands up to the light and see what "glitters" and what "shines".