MOSCOW FASHION WEEK: Pret-a-porter Directory

2024 Author: James Gerald | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-12 17:37

The flag of the MOSCOW FASHION WEEK fluttered throughout the past week on a chic new office building on Novinsky Boulevard. "Week" gathered fashion designers who have already become regulars of the shows and debutants. For four days in a row, Russian fashion designers, according to the established tradition, in spring, demonstrated pret-a-porter collections for autumn - winter 2003-2004.

1st day

CLARUS FASHION

The fashion house CLARUS FASHION opened the Week with a show of its collection. And he immediately set an interesting mood. Details of the men's wardrobe, transformed into elegant feminine things, such as leggings, once exclusively the privilege of the male class, the designer proposes to wear directly over pointed-toed shoes. Special attention should be paid to hats, small, black and brown, with a "bowler hat", they created a kind of intrigue, complementing all models from a tuxedo interpreted in a feminine version to the lightest, thinnest skirts and dresses. Some dresses, by the way, were decorated with long adornments of turquoise color, which is fashionable now.

Samoshchenko Olga

The collection of the fashion designer Olga Samoshchenko breathed a heartfelt historicism, the 50s, 60s set the basis in blazers in a white and pink check, jackets, indispensable satin and plush berets on one side. Color variations - light pink with a slight "wear", milky beige, burgundy, warm shades of brown. Fishnet tights, doll makeup, curls, pink cheeks; from materials - velvet, corduroy, corrugated silk and the finest chiffon. Despite all the glamor and emphatically drawn femininity, the collection is insanely fashionable and is the undisputed hit of the next season.

Natalia Tarasevich

In the collection of designer Natalia Tarasevich, working under the "Dachshund" brand, a certain oriental theme is characteristic, it is reflected in silk blouses with wide belts and, in general, easily and unobtrusively passes through the entire collection. The main shoes of the collection are coarse men's pointed-toed flat-soled shoes, in some models there are coarse boots, as, for example, in combination: a short dark green jacket and cropped black trousers made of coarse jersey. The collection is also characterized by a certain sportiness, voluminous shapes, narrow cropped trousers with patch pockets, fitted jackets.

Lyudmila Yakushina

Introduced a collection in which the first violin was played by black, used in 20 shades. Black sounded shrill, touching terracotta, deep blue. Emphasized femininity could be observed, for example, in a long black dress, the top of which is made by a shirt with a high collar, the bottom - begins immediately from the chest with a tight "assembly". The designer plays with black in various combinations, through the presentation of unusual color solutions, brings a kind of philosophical basis for the five sections of the collection. Shoes that complement the collection are pointed-toed, men's, with low heels.

2nd day

Irina Frangulyan

The second fashion day of MFW was opened by the collection of Irina Frangulyan. Asymmetrical edges, black; Wide gathering-elastic at the back, living on the belt, on the shoulders and back, can be found on any fabrics - from a dense coarse coat to the finest silk - the main trends of the collection. And also: patch pockets on tight trousers, light milk corduroy. Well, and a mandatory thesis, applicable to all models, are bronze and gold sneakers with white soles, as well as gloves. In general, if you decide to meet the coming winter in pret-a-porte from Irina Frangulyan, you are guaranteed warmth, comfort and extra-style with a touch of sportiness. Yes, I almost forgot! The makeup that complements the collection is gentle, light and quite wintry: moist silver-blue shadows up to the eyebrows, pinkish transparent gloss on the lips - ideally complement the natural blush caused by the biting frost.

Lyudmila Mezentseva

The collection proposed by Lyudmila Mezentseva, representing the Vereteno trade and production brand, was distinguished not only by the striking uniqueness of the models themselves, but (as always) by the presentation of the image as such. Hairstyles in the "Mohawk" style, a pale red stripe on the eyes, grotesquely long eyelashes - everything created the impression of a theatrical performance, a kind of play with an image, a costume. Models of the "Vereteno" brand are clothes for extraordinary, bold in decisions, creative people.

The hit of the collection was patch pockets. They were present on almost all models: on the side - on long skirts, on the mini - at the back. Volumetric patch pockets perched on the chest, shoulder blades and sleeves. Trousers - nostalgic plush golife with a thick satin insert. Satin belts passed through the entire collection as a leitmotif, tightening immediately under the bust into a large, rough knot. Coats - black, gray, voluminous, "cocoon-like", with asymmetrical cut edges, wide sleeves, made of rough cloth.

The main colors of the collection are: khaki combined with orange, dull green; as well as characteristic combinations of small stripes, elongated cells. The collection uses knitwear, mixing threads of different textures, play of colors in melange weaves. Lush thin skirts in a large elongated cage with pleated petticoats in muted orange color like all models of the fall-winter 2003-2004 collection. in the performance of Lyudmila Mezentseva - complemented by small black ballet slippers. Machine fabrics are combined with hand-knitted elements, and the peculiarity of "Spindle" is the combination of industrial products with hand-made elements, as well as the combination of sewing and knitting technologies, in knitwear - the use of a raw edge, dissolution.

The expectations of the number of people who came specifically to the show of the collection of Lyudmila Mezentseva, judging by the number of flowers and applause, were fully justified. The collection turned out to be unexpected, incomprehensible, "on the verge". An obscure intrigue, a secret background, a joint, a contrast - the feelings born of a complex in all respects collection "Spindle" show the author's rethinking of certain problems, philosophical reflections.

Olga Polukhina

Olga Polukhina's collection paid tribute to thick jackets, thin leather belts, thick woolen sweaters, asymmetrical cut, as well as red, which was found in the form of edging on a brown suit, stitching on turtlenecks with a Fufaika nameplate. Crosses have become a peculiar highlight. Yes, yes - crosses, don't be surprised! Crosses (or crosses) were the logical completion of thin leather belts, adornment of turtlenecks, as well as models' hairstyles. Knitted slippers with pointed toes were offered as shoes.

3rd day

Elena Teplitskaya

She presented her winter collection in the images of "twig girls". The models ran out skipping, holding thin twigs in their hands. The style of the collection itself was also corresponding. Voluminous skirts, bright crimson and red tights, chunky knit pink and light green sweaters, bright sunny makeup, from accessories - beads, pendants, complex designs from various stones; scarves both on the head and on the neck and belt, the main colors of the collection: yellow, pink combined with light green, khaki with orange.

Lena Tsokolenko

The Belarusian fashion designer presented a collection of emphatically complex designs. Difficult for perception and understanding of the shape, clear cut lines, stand-up collars, compound coats and wide trousers tapering to the bottom. The contrast of textures looked most advantageous in the condition of minimal presentation of fabrics.

In most models, the waist is accentuated, jackets have soft shapes, in some they use a rectangular filled sleeve-blende sewn along the edge, collars are not set-in, but with a stand, in one of the coats there is an exaggerated collar-tube, strongly protruding forward. Trousers are moderately wide, tapering downwards or complex-cut, reminiscent in places of harem pants, skirts - full, two-layer.

Oleg Biryukov

The main materials of the collection: tweed, muslin, crepe de chine, natural fur, colors: tree bark, autumn sky, frosty branches, creamy white, shades of brown, play of gray. A ballet school student who prefers minimalism, which favorably sets off a chiseled figure, natural fur, like a muff, will warm her hands and give an exquisite nobility to a long, mouse-colored coat with a high waist … knits, spare jackets with a stand-up collar and low armholes, a jacket lined with mink, a coat cut from fragments of woolen fabrics of various colors and textures in the spirit of geometric abstractionism, short fur coats … natural fur - a collection for those who prefer to look "modest and expensive".

Lilya Pustovit

Bright, catchy, stylish, active, youthful, cocky, playful, defiantly daring - this collection of fashion designer Lily Pustovit is clearly not for those who sit in a dusty office for a long time. Jeans, short denim skirts with large patch pockets, coats with knitted sleeves, short double-breasted jackets with shoulder straps, an abundance of rivets, bright knee-highs, sneakers - a collection for active, athletic and energetic youth.

4th day

Inna Kolpashnikova

The 4th day started in a somewhat unusual way. Namely: on the podium, which was already familiar for these days, suddenly the scenery appeared, which the entire audience looked at with keen interest, and some of the most daring individuals even tried to touch. The vice of curiosity overpowered the KLEO correspondent, and I was about to feel the high bundles of brushwood, placed on both sides of the podium, like a loud invisible voice, slightly nervous, asked to be more careful with the decorations. I had to obey. Well, there are already a few minutes left before the start of the fashion show, impatience parses, the very name "Abandoned Paradise" is more than intriguing.

Well, the collection lives up to its name. Fur coats with sharp edges, fox collars thrown over one shoulder, coarse black and red boots with low heels, as well as lowered belts - such is the inhabitant of "Abandoned Paradise" in Inna Kolpashnikova's variation. The belt is present on all models and is a symbiosis of a wide cloth belt over which there is a thin leather belt.

Sergey Sysoev

The collection of Sergei Sysoev turned out to be unusually soft, feminine, warm and delicate. The main colors that prevailed in the collection are cream, various combinations of brown, beige, burgundy, muted pink. Soft fabrics, the tone of which, as always, was set by your favorite knitwear. Delicate details coexisted with rough metal rings adorning the finest dresses and light blouses. Thin embroidered shirts with ruffles in blue and white combined with asymmetrical sweaters looked amazing. The woman of this collection is a soft fluffy house cat who will never forget to wear high heels. And the name "Comfortable chic for every day" justifies itself literally in every model. Personally, I was just wildly delighted with the collection of Sergei Sysoev, this is how the coming fashionable winter seemed to me, it seemed that the designer exposed my vague considerations in a skillful form.

Irina Derkach

During the fashion show of Irina Derkach's collection, my sensitive ear every now and then caught a slight whisper: "Well, the collection is winter!" Winter, then winter - only girls in white short skirts, open T-shirts - sexy walked along the catwalk, belts made of natural hemp, richly decorated with shells and sea stones, were a spectacular find in relation to all models without exception. Shoes - white cloth boots, with an open heel and for some reason decorated with clothespins. Clothespins complemented both clothes and hairstyles. The apogee of the defile was, a little thinner, against the background of Shura's past merits, actively demonstrating that he had finally found a good dentist. We must assume that the open white mini dress shown by the singer to his own song was the dress of the bride?